Washing machine won't drain the water away
The cycle runs but the water never leaves. On almost every make and model this is a blocked drain path, and the pump filter is both the most likely cause and the easiest thing to check.
You can fix this yourself
No special tools or qualifications needed
About 55 min to work through
Free to £150
DIY: Up to £40 in parts
Before you start
Electrical safety: Unplug the machine before opening the pump filter.
Water: Several litres will come out of the filter housing. Towels and a shallow tray first.
What causes it, most likely first
Blocked pump filter
Most likelyThe trap in front of the pump packs solid with debris until water can no longer get through. Cleaning it is a twenty-minute job and fixes the majority of drain faults.
Pump filter / trap£8–£20 for the partDIYBlocked sink trap or standpipe
CommonA grease-blocked kitchen waste stops the machine draining even though nothing inside the machine has failed.
How to check: Run the kitchen tap hard and watch how quickly the sink clears.
Kinked or silted drain hose
CommonCrushed behind the machine, or narrowed along its length by years of detergent scum.
Drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe
OccasionalIf the hose end sits too deep it can siphon, which confuses the level sensor and makes the machine behave as though it never emptied.
How to check: Check the hose enters the standpipe by no more than about 10cm.
Jammed or failed drain pump
OccasionalAn object past the filter stalls the impeller, or the pump motor fails outright.
Drain pump£15–£40 for the partDIY with careBlocked pressure switch hose
RareThe thin hose that tells the board the water level silts up, so the machine reports a drain failure despite having emptied normally.
Pressure switch / level sensor£12–£32 for the partEngineer
What to check, in order
Isolate the machine
Unplug at the wall and lay towels along the front with a shallow tray ready.
5 minTowels, Shallow trayDrain down through the emergency hose
Open the bottom flap, pull out the emergency drain hose beside the filter, and empty the drum into your tray in stages.
15 minClean the filter thoroughly
Unscrew and remove the filter, clear it under a tap including the mesh, and check the impeller in the housing turns freely with a finger.
10 minTorchCheck the hose and waste
Straighten any kinks, disconnect the hose at the waste and confirm free flow into a bucket, then clean the sink trap.
15 minBucketRefit and test
Screw the filter back hand-tight and square, restore power, run a rinse-and-spin and watch for leaks in the first minute.
10 min
Need an engineer for this?
We list 4 washer dryer repair businesses across the UK. Diagnostic callouts typically start around £55, and many will put that towards the repair if you go ahead.
- 01463 791822Highland Appliance ServicesVerifiedInverness
- 01823 669616Squibb Appliance CareVerifiedTaunton
- 01903 779 334The Service CentreVerifiedAngmeringSame day
Parts you might need
Typical UK prices for the part alone, before fitting. Worth knowing before you accept a quote — the part is often a small share of what a repair is priced at.
Pump filter / trap
A removable mesh trap in front of the pump that catches coins, hair grips and buttons before they reach the impeller.
£8–£20Pressure switch / level sensor
Reads how much water is in the tub via a thin air hose. Blocked hoses and split diaphragms make the machine over- or under-fill.
£12–£32Drain pump
The small electric pump that pushes waste water out of the drum and into your waste pipe at the end of a cycle.
£15–£40
Worth repairing, or replace it?
At the top of this range the repair costs a significant share of a graded replacement, which typically starts around £280. Worth getting the quote first, then deciding — on a machine under about five years old a repair usually still wins.
Is there an error code on the display?
If your washer dryer is showing a code, that will narrow the diagnosis a lot further than symptoms alone.
Look up your error code